I get a variety of pleasure out of sporting this outfit, although I’m not fairly certain why.
It could be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailor-made jacket, tailor-made trousers – however not that stuffy. No tie, and never even a correct shirt, only a polo.
It could be that it’s clearly deliberate, acutely aware, a private fashion – but pretty delicate. There are not any brilliant colors, patterns or dandy touches (spectators/braces/waistcoats and many others and many others).
Or it could be that it appears like a basic mode of dressing, one thing drawn from one other period – a Ralph Lauren advert even – and but the tonality makes it really feel extra trendy than that.
It’s clearly not what everybody else might be sporting round me, and it’ll stand out. However it’s additionally not drawn from some fantasy world.
There are methods you can make it subtler nonetheless. Swap the bone-coloured trousers for a navy or darkish brown; swap the polo for an everyday shirt.
There are additionally methods you can give it flourish. Add a pocket sq.; swap the footwear for one thing extra uncommon, like a Corthay final or Berluti colors.
However this mix feels probably the most private to me, proper now.
It’s a sort of look I establish with and that I put on usually, so I really feel very snug in. It additionally does the job I need it to do – projecting who I’m and the angle I take (tailor-made however not fussy, critical however hopefully not staid) for a working day amongst tailors and outlets.
Of all these causes for liking an outfit, crucial have to be that it appears like me. Most different issues lead from it.
After a number of years of sporting good garments and trying to decorate nicely, I feel you regularly get to some extent the place you possibly can obtain any explicit look you need to. One thing a bit older, or a bit youthful, a bit extra trendy or extra conventional, extra formal or informal.
The query then turns into, what look would you like? Are you attempting to look extra trendy, or much less? Extra experimental and maybe attention-grabbing, or extra understated? Additionally how sensible throughout the week, and the way informal on the weekend?
I do know loads of folks within the menswear trade who’re pushed – by means of some mixture of persona and career – to be extra experimental. Who need to categorical themselves extra strongly and develop into stressed when there’s nothing new on the horizon.
That is fully pure, and possibly inevitable in an atmosphere of latest seasons and collections. However frankly, I’ve by no means been in a position to be that imaginative, which most likely makes me extremely unsuitable to be a artistic director or somebody related at a model.
I like, slightly, settling into one thing low key and private. Which – after 500 of phrases of working it by means of as I sort – might be why I take pleasure in this outfit a lot.
By the best way, a reader commented on this text on Oliver that a number of the issues he favours may very well be seen as ‘menswear tropes’ and customary round social media.
The primary response to that’s, certain, however frankly Oliver does it significantly better than most. And earlier than a variety of others.
And second, I don’t dwell on social media. I dwell in a suburb of London – and nobody right here is sporting white socks with loafers or caps with tailoring.
Possibly you’re extra prone to see your self coming the opposite means when you dwell in Stockholm. However not in London or most locations world wide.
The place I dwell there are actually a lot of folks dressing equally – each girl appears to have purchased an outsized coat and a pair of massive black boots over the winter – however there are treasured few classic-menswear followers round.
So I wouldn’t fear about taking direct inspiration from folks you admire, in New York, Stockholm or Seoul.
Most readers might be aware of the garments pictured right here, however for those who aren’t they’re, with transient reflections:
A gray-herringbone tweed jacket from The Anthology, which is now my most worn piece of tailoring. Though a lot as I really like the reduce, the largest issue is the fabric.
An Armoury polo shirt beneath a Luca Faloni crewneck – a glance I stole straight from Rubato and wrote about right here. It nonetheless makes me blissful, although I want Colhay’s did knitwear on this color.
Trousers from Pommella in a beige wool twill materials, provided up to now by Zegna however not obtainable by the reduce size. Though Gianluca at Pommella does have a roll of it, so it may be ordered from him.
A PS olive cashmere scarf (presently restocking these for autumn).
And my favorite pair of footwear, the mink-suede Belgravia from Edward Inexperienced – which we just lately launched collectively in an unlined model, as a collaboration. I’ll go into the method behind these in a separate put up.
Pictures: Alex Natt @adnatt