Monday, August 15, 2022
HomeFashionThe enchantment of a silk dressing robe – at New & Lingwood...

The enchantment of a silk dressing robe – at New & Lingwood – Everlasting Fashion


As I wrote earlier this 12 months, I’m normally fairly conservative in relation to robes. They’re very sensible for me, thrown on early within the morning to rise up with certainly one of my three daughters. 

They will nonetheless be luxurious, and fantastically made. I’m good at taking care of good supplies, and may deal with the occasional stray soggy Corn Flake. However I’m not a person of luxurious leisure, and robes which might be overly fancy or fussy simply don’t match my life. 

Nonetheless, an ornamental silk dressing robe is a stunningly stunning factor. In case you like menswear, you respect a woven-silk necktie; you additionally love the dimensions and circulate of a fantastic overcoat; a dressing robe such because the silk pictured above is a mix – a maximisation – of these two issues. You’d be a idiot to not be tempted. 

Thankfully, a reader not too long ago requested what sort of silk dressing robe I’d advocate. A traditional navy spot? A quilted-lapel smoking quantity? And this gave me the excuse to think about the choices vicariously. 

Anybody that spends time strolling round Mayfair could have had their eye caught, in some unspecified time in the future, by the New & Lingwood robe retailer on the finish of the Piccadilly Arcade. 

There’s such a riot of brightly colored cloth: black and gold; purple and inexperienced; through the summer time a procession of sugary linens in pale blue, yellow and pink. The one actual native competitors is from Favourbrook, and even they’ve fairly just a few attire and waistcoats in plain cream or black. 

I wouldn’t be shocked if the show makes everybody that walks previous rethink whether or not they’d put on a silk robe. Or need to take into account it – need to need it. 

I feel there’s fairly an enormous distinction between a few of the choices although. 

A black silk robe embroidered with skulls and crossed bones can look a bit foolish, a minimum of to me. Are you making an attempt to look harmful and hard? In a silk robe? I do know there’s the Eton connection, however extra than simply Previous Etonians are shopping for them. 

Equally robes in gold, with quilted facings and tassels. It’s a bit an excessive amount of, too showy. 

There’s nonetheless a query of style, in different phrases. Simply as there can be when you have been shopping for patterns and colors for one more space of your life, like curtains or comfortable furnishings.

In case you’re going to put on a brightly colored dressing robe, my recommendation can be to keep away from different features of ornament. Keep away from the quilting and the tassels, and focus merely on colors and patterns that you just like – as you’ll the silk in a necktie. 

I just like the peacock-patterned silk above, for instance. Though it’s clearly a daring sample, and makes use of robust color, the distinction is moderately lower than one thing in inexperienced and gold, or orange and navy. In comparison with these, the pink and turquoise is sort of refined. 

I additionally like the truth that the piping is low distinction. Though it provides one other color, a comfortable gold, to the combination, it blends with the pink and inexperienced fairly properly. 

To me, the bright-white piping on some robes makes them look a bit low-cost, significantly on darker colors. Which is why the piping on the robe I coated earlier this 12 months was so tonal. 

The New & Lingwood robes are all finely made, in fact.

I significantly just like the vast, rounded form of the facings, and the best way they roll open all the best way all the way down to the hem everytime you go away the robe unbelted. Take a look at the stomach on it within the picture beneath – it’s nearly as vast because the chest itself.

Additionally essential is a belt that holds its form, and doesn’t collapse when tied. Whether or not achieved by stitching or lining, it makes an enormous distinction to how elegant the robe seems. Nothing makes a dressing robe look outdated and ratty greater than a belt that has change into little greater than a shoe string.

Lots of the N&L robes are additionally made within the basement of the principle store on the opposite facet of the Arcade – one thing I’m undecided many individuals know.

This makes changes pretty simple, which is good. It’s simple to do one thing like take off the fold-back cuffs and shorten the sleeves, for instance, earlier than reattaching them. 

Curiously, N&L solely had a medium and an extra-large within the retailer on this sample, and I discovered the latter suited me higher. 

A medium was extra of a ‘true’ match, with the top of the shoulder sitting proper on the purpose of my shoulder bone. However I feel a robe needs to be free, luxuriously so, and because of this have fullness within the physique once you cinch it on the waist. The additional massive, pictured right here, did that higher on me. 

Extra energy to those who put on silk robes and luxuriate in them. They’re actually fantastic – and now that Vanners has gone, there shall be fewer and fewer made within the UK. 

From what I perceive, the tried rescue of Vanners – which had been weaving silk since 1740, and which I visited again in 2009 – has now fallen by, leaving Stephen Walters as the one mill doing this weaving at any scale within the UK. 

Let’s hope there are sufficient dandies round to maintain manufacturing going there a minimum of. 

The silk robe pictured prices £1,250. Linen robes are a very good various, beginning at £595. Bespoke robes are additionally doable, from a spread of silks and different supplies.

The pyjamas pictured are brushed cotton from Anderson & Sheppard. I discover gray a very good foil for robust color, in a lot the identical means as a gray flannel swimsuit. The sneakers are Sagan Lunes from Baudoin & Lange. 

Pictures, Alex Natt @adnatt

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