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HomeFashionPeter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Assessment – Everlasting Model

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Assessment – Everlasting Model

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based mostly in Zurich. He does a whole lot of educating of hand-sewn leather-based strategies, together with courses, movies and particular person coaching. He additionally sells leather-working instruments. (Once you’re a bespoke craftsman, it’s good to have a number of sources of earnings.)

It’s the baggage he makes himself I needed to spotlight, nevertheless, as I not too long ago had a briefcase made and it is among the loveliest items of leather-based work I’ve seen. 

I selected a basic flap-over briefcase fashion, particularly in a Barenia leather-based and uncooked brass {hardware}. 

Years in the past I purchased a beautiful Sac a Depeches briefcase from Hermes, however in a ‘shadow’ leather-based that doesn’t age in any respect actually, and palladium {hardware}. 

Whereas I’ve beloved utilizing that case, I all the time puzzled whether or not I ought to have gotten the brighter and fewer conservative – however maybe extra lovely – Barenia. That is me lastly placing that to the check. 

I did wish to cowl Peter’s workshop, however I wasn’t going to get to Zurich any time quickly. 

So I reached out to a few mates and PS readers who reside there – Paul Fournier and Andrew Borda. Paul turned out to have the time that week, so he popped alongside and acted as our roving reporter. That’s him on the left, under, with Peter. 

“Peter was an excellent host and his crew is beautiful – fairly a gem of a discover I have to admit,” says Paul. 

“I gained’t thanks although, as a result of I then positioned an order I positively hadn’t deliberate!”

Paul questioned Peter, and found that though he’s been within the leather-based enterprise for 12 years, he didn’t begin at an early age, as most do. 

Fairly, Peter started in textiles, shopping for and promoting classic materials, then garments and equipment. Normally he would scout items in Paris after which deliver them again to Zurich to promote.

He finally had two outlets, one in every metropolis, specialising in classic. However then, throughout a visit to Paris he met an Hermès craftswoman, who made him fall in love with saddle stitching and leather-based work. 

Peter started educating himself at evening, in addition to asking the craftswoman to journey and train him in Switzerland. This expertise, he says, is one factor that makes him eager to show others. 

Peter finally acquired some notoriety, that includes in Vogue France and dealing with Colette. 

For my bag I used to be eager for a basic briefcase, however Peter additionally satisfied me to attempt his specific twist lock (above), the place a claw-like piece of brass is twisted to safe the entrance, however slips via a formed gap within the brass plate to open. 

I’m glad I did, for the lock may be very satisfying to make use of – it slips via effortlessly when opening, however locks into place completely if you flip it. 

The mechanics of {hardware} are surprisingly necessary, I discover. As you utilize it many occasions a day, you’re consistently reminded of any lack in high quality or small misalignment. 

It’s one distinction I all the time discover between my finer umbrellas from the likes of Heurtault, and fewer cautious ones from Talarico

Extra prosaically, we not too long ago purchased a brand new oven at dwelling and although it features properly in each different respect, the knobs to regulate the hob are flimsy and scrape barely if you flip them. I’d pay good cash to get these changed with one thing higher.

(In fact, you possibly can take this to an excessive and get aggravated at each such factor in life. However I feel the feelings of it are actually as much as you. A greater means to take a look at it’s, when you will have the selection, why not have one thing higher – and reward the maker who made it that means?)

The explanation I really like Barenia leather-based is the way in which it ages. The brilliant tan steadily softens to a wealthy brown, and the nicks and scratches it simply acquires get labored into the floor, turning into fainter till they only add to the feel. Somewhat like a calf shoe.

I’ve seen this occur with a pockets of mine, with a belt and likewise with the envelope we designed with Equus a few years in the past. 

So I understand how this bag will look in a 12 months or two, and I don’t panic on the scratches it’s acquired. The identical goes for the brass lock, which I needed uncoated, can go away to tarnish, after which will deliver again as much as a shine if and once I need. 

The best way these processes work will not be a simple factor to speak, and that’s why so many leather-based items are made right this moment with handled surfaces that may by no means change – however like plastic, haven’t any character both. It’s additionally the explanation so few of Peter’s shoppers are Swiss – all most of them need, in response to him, is Dior and Chanel. 

I don’t assume I’m exaggerating once I say it’s genuinely your position as customers to indicate this, discuss this, and unfold the phrase. Educated patrons are the one means such crafts survive.  

The larger query for me in commissioning this bag was not the leather-based, however whether or not I’d truly carry a briefcase nonetheless. 

In the event you’re nonetheless within the sort of career the place you put on a darkish swimsuit to work each day, a black or brown briefcase is a good choice. (For many, an attaché case is sadly too formal.)

Nonetheless, in case your office is turning into increasingly casual, a tote bag like the PS bullskin one or a canvas briefcase, like the Filson we coated not too long ago, might be going to be extra applicable. 

And for me? It’s unlikely I’ve a working week just like any reader; however I even have a necessity and a want to put on sensible fits extra typically. 

Up to now I’ve discovered I like carrying the briefcase lots – partly as a result of it’s one thing further so as to add to an outfit when ties and handkerchiefs are a lot much less frequent. 

In reality, this is among the good issues about summer time too, I’ve present in current weeks. Sun shades and hats are useful, needed equipment, but additionally add one thing ornamental to day by day put on. 

I like carrying the bag with fits and smarter jackets, like the dark-brown Crispaire swimsuit from Dalcuore pictured. It’s excessive distinction, and actually provides one thing further with out these equipment. 

However nonetheless, I carry different issues like my totes way more typically, and if I didn’t have already got each base coated, it wouldn’t have made sense. 

Peter’s work is ok and exact, and incorporates quite a few little craft touches – corresponding to one-piece gussets on luggage like mine, with one gusset shorter than the opposite so it all the time stands up straight. 

I’d suggest him to anybody that appreciates hand-sewn leather-based. 

Most of his work is for ladies, and a lot of the social feed is of the educating, however there are some pretty designs hidden in there. He does every part from watch rolls to wallets, purses to journey luggage, and instances for vintage weapons or cigars. 

And naturally, if you may get to Zurich – as I couldn’t – it’s value seeing the workshop in particular person. Thanks Paul for doing that in my stead. 

Atelier Peter Nitz is at Spiegelgasse 29. www.atelierpeternitz.com

Baggage run from SFr4000 (£3300) to SFr8000. My bag was SFr6400. Unique leathers vary from SFr10,000 to 30,000. 

Programs and tutorials vary extensively in time and value. Particulars on each at these hyperlinks. 



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